What Is Fabric Pilling? How Is Pilling Resistance Tested?

Fabric pilling occurs when loose fibres reach the surface during wear, become entangled and form small balls. Pilling can make fabric look worn and can also reduce the apparent sharpness and colour clarity of a printed design.

How does pilling form?

Loose fibre ends first rise to the surface and create fuzz. Continued rubbing tangles them together. Strong fibres can hold the pill on the surface, while weaker fibres may eventually break and release it.

This means a strong synthetic fibre can keep pills attached for longer. Appearance depends on both the number of pills and how firmly they remain anchored.

What increases pilling risk?

A high proportion of short fibres, low yarn twist, hairy yarns and loose fabric construction can make fibre migration easier. Fibre blends matter too. Weaker fibres may move outward while stronger synthetic fibres hold the resulting pill in place.

Weight alone does not predict pilling resistance. Two fabrics with the same GSM can perform differently because their yarn and surface structures differ. See the fabric weight guide for GSM selection.

Do woven and knitted fabrics behave the same?

The loop structure and soft surfaces of some knits can be exposed to more rubbing. A dense smooth knit may still perform better than a loose woven fabric. Fabric type alone is not enough for approval.

The woven and knitted fabric comparison explains the structural differences.

Does printing affect pilling?

Printing and finishing can alter surface friction. Film-forming applications may temporarily restrict fibre movement or create a firmer hand. Their effect can change after laundering and wear. The presence of colour on the surface does not by itself cause pilling.

Test the digitally printed specimen after all intended washing and finishing steps. An unfinished fabric result may not represent the final product.

How does pilling change print appearance?

Surface fuzz and pills can blur the edges of small motifs. Pale fibres become more visible on a dark print, while dark fibres stand out against a light ground. The same test grade may therefore look different across colourways.

Review the actual print and colour combination as well as the numerical grade.

How is pilling resistance tested?

The ISO 12945 series includes pilling box, modified Martindale and random tumble methods. ASTM D3512 uses a random tumble tester to assess pilling and related surface changes. These methods apply different mechanical actions, so their results should not be treated as interchangeable.

ASTM D3512 uses a visual scale in which 5 indicates no pilling and 1 indicates very severe pilling. A purchase order should state the method, exposure or cycle and assessment conditions instead of writing only "minimum grade 4".

Does a laboratory result guarantee real-life performance?

Testing is useful for comparing samples under consistent conditions. Actual rubbing from bag straps, seat belts, furniture edges or another garment can differ from laboratory movement. Product trials suited to the end use remain useful.

The fabric sample guide explains physical approval before production.

Can care reduce pilling?

Turning garments inside out, separating them from abrasive items and following the care label can reduce unnecessary rubbing. An overloaded drum or unsuitable tumble-drying cycle can increase surface wear.

Removing pills with a fabric shaver can improve appearance temporarily, but it does not change the fabric's pilling tendency. It may damage fine or loose constructions.

What should be requested before ordering?

• Test standard and apparatus method
• Exposure time, cycle or test condition
• Target grade and assessment lighting
• Printing, finishing and laundering state of the specimen
• Approved sample code and production lot

Approve pilling resistance on a production sample with the intended print and finish.

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Frequently asked questions about fabric pilling